Adderly's Cut to Georgetown, Exumas, Part 7
2
During the first week of our stay, there were several days of high winds and we sought refuge in amongst a group of cays at a place called Red Shanks. There, no matter what the winds, we were as still as a mill pond. It was a several mile dinghy ride to town though and as sheltered as we were, the no-see-ums were annoying at dusk.
The first day at Red Shanks at 4 PM dinghies from all over the anchorage scurried to a little tiny beach that, at low tide, is no bigger than a small living room. This is the Red Shanks Yacht and Tennis Club where each evening at sundown the conchs are blown whilst each and everyone takes strong drink. The RSYTC does not accept just anyone. To become a member you must promise not to buy you own polo pony for the first year and use only The Club's animals. After deliberating, we accepted the terms and had our names inscribed in The Club's roster. It should be noted that when meetings are held at high tide, there is a unique closeness with fellow members.
A congratulatory note must be made regarding the town's accommodations for cruisers. Boot Key Harbor in Florida is often haven to the same or greater number of cruising Yachts. But, outside of a few places, there is little accommodation for cruisers and the minimal services are usually at a price. Conversely, George Town is very concerned about the ease with which cruisers have access to the community services. They have a large dinghy dock in a lake in the middle of town with a small waterway access. It is not unusual to see 50 or more dinghies tied up at a time. Slightly brackish water is available unrestricted and everyone carts their shower water around. Drinking water is delivered to another dock when requested, but the price is $0.95 per gallon; you supply the container. A cruiser's net on VHF radio provided much needed weather information as well as announcements of cruiser movements and the wide variety of activities.
Daily, Mom, of Mom's bakery sells fresh bread from her truck on main street. An island freigher out of Nassau stops every Wednesday to resupply the town and on Thursday the shelves of the shops are full, diminishing each day thereafter until the freighter returns. We ate out occasionally and were never disappointed.
There is a downside to George Town, however. If the weather remains bad for an extended period, you are trapped. Also, the cruisers that inhabit the area year round have established a regimen that sometimes made me feel like we were a part of a guided tour. On balance though, the stay gives you lots of opportunity to restock critical items and enjoy the advantages previously mentioned. We were ready to seek new horizons after two weeks in the harbor.