August 25, 2005

A brief tour of coastal cruising from Isla de Providencia, Colombia to Isla Mujeres, Mexico.

Fuel. Before heading north, it’s a good idea to fuel up at Cartagena and again at Isla de San Andres. In 2004 the price of diesel in Colombia was $1.00 per gallon.

Fuel in Panama needs some explanation. In the San Blas, fuel can be purchased at Nargana. It will be taken to your boat by dugout, in drums and hand pumped. In mid 2003, the fuel was priced $1.60 per gallon. The fuel was clean and of the proper viscosity, however, the sand gnats were terrible in the afternoon and early morning hours.

Fuel at the Panama Canal Yacht Club (Colon) has historically been thin, watery and kerosene like. For Francesca, the fuel mileage was down by about 25 percent because of this. It has been authoritatively recommended that, to avoid injector pump damage, this fuel should be combined with 1 quart of 2-cycle oil for each 100 gallons. In early 2003 the price was $1.60 per gallon.

Fuel can be purchased at the Lagoon Marina at La Ceiba, Honduras. The price in late 2003 was $1.40 per gallon. It will be brought to the dock in drums, by pickup truck, and hand pumped to the boat.

In the Rio Dulce, near Fronteras, Guatemala there is a modern Texaco fuel dock with historically good, clean fuel. The price in late 2004 was $1.60 per gallon.

At the Ft. George Dock, Belize City, Belize, fuel is available, but the price anywhere in Belize is shockingly high. The dock is poorly configured for cruising boats and difficult to fend off. Dock rash is a near certainty with any chop or boat traffic.

Fuel may now be available at San Pedro, Ambergris Cay, Belize.

The next available fuel is at Puerto Aventuras, Mexico. Do not attempt to enter this marina area in anything but light or light-moderate sea conditions. Fuel in Mexico is expensive. In 2004 it was about $2.25.

Most cruisers stop at Isla Mujeres before crossing the Gulf. There is a very nice fuel dock there. However, over several years, we and other cruisers have been charged for significantly more fuel (up to 100 gallons) than was pumped. If you must fuel there, make sure the pump is set to zero. It may be useful to pump the first 5 gallons in a jerry can to check the pump calibration.

The SSB Nets. Cruisers who have not been to the western Caribbean will find that the reduced number of cruising boats makes it possible to have more personally supportive nets.

The Panama Connection Net is active every morning at 7:30 CST, 8.107 MHz. Cruisers from Cartagena to Providencia are encouraged to check-in and become known to the community.

The NW Caribbean Net is also on every morning beginning at 8:00 CST, 8.188 MHz. It is a very personable net covering Providencia to Key West.

The Trip North. From Isla de Providencia, Colombia (off the Nicaraguan coast) to the north coast of Honduras one can make stops at Quita Sueno Banks, Media Luna and the Vivario Cays.

Quita Sueno Banks. These banks stretch approximately north-south for 25 miles and the easternmost part of the banks has a barrier reef. The banks vary in width from 2 to about 7 miles. We made a cursory exploration of the central 1/3 of the banks in the spring of 2003. In the areas visited, coral patches rose nearly vertically from around 50 feet up to near or at the surface. It would be very hazardous to navigate through the area without advantageously oriented daylight. There are also few places to anchor in less than 50 feet and the coral patches were so numerous that swinging room (and dragging room) was difficult to find. Even behind the barrier reef in shallow water, we found few places to anchor where coral heads weren’t a threat.

The section of barrier reef we observed had 5 large ships high on the reef. We had expected to find many lobsters on the coral patches (April), but were disappointed. There were, however, many large snapper. This area is remote and rarely visited. Without a safe anchorage, the tropical waves or winter northers may represent a significant risk to those who would linger too long.

Arricefe de la Media Luna. This reef area is a little like Quita Sueno Banks, but has a north facing fringe reef. Reasonably safe (weather-wise) anchorages can be found in the region. At the time of our visit, diving was only fair because of an algae bloom. Media Luna gained a bad reputation in the 1990s because of boardings and piracy. There are some populated islands in the area, which inhabitants are of questionable character. It may not be wise to visit Media Luna without a buddy boat. Make special note that electronic chart M28130S0 (WGS-72) has a latitude error of 15 nm while charts M28140S0 (also WGS-72) and 28130 appear to be correct. All of the other charts we have checked agree to within about ½ mile. In 2003, a cruiser was perched on the reef for several days because of the chart error.

Vivario Cays and Cayos Becerro. In the early 1990s there were also some problems with boarders at the Vivario Cays. Our two visits (2003 & 2004) were uneventful and we have not heard of any recent problems there. Two good places to anchor cover nearly all of the likely weather conditions. The first is SE of Grand Cayos Vivario in 30 feet of water with good holding. In calm conditions, the no-see-ums are bad there. The second spot is east of the big island, behind the eastern fringe reef in deep sand and 10 feet of water. The small island on the south end of the fringe reef usually has a fisherman and his wife residing there. They were happy to trade fish, lobster and shrimp for basics and beer.

There is good snorkeling and diving at the Vivarios and it is a pleasant place to hangout for a day or week waiting for weather.

Be aware that the southernmost fringing reef hooks around further west than shown on the charts.

Cayos Cochinos. Twenty miles NE of La Ceiba Honduras are the Cochinos. These island are a national park and anchoring is not allowed. There are a dozen or so free moorings on the west side of Cochino Grande. This is a nice place to stop during settled weather. The Bay Islands of Guanaja, Roatan and Utila have more secure anchorages.

La Ceiba, Honduras. The entrance to the harbor has a breakwater. Call Tony at the Lagoon Marina for tide and entry depth conditions. In the past, he would escort boats unfamiliar with the area to the marina. Rita and Tony own and operate the marina. They are great folks. Lagoon Marina is an oasis with a lovely big swimming pool, a good dock, and inexpensive taxi service to town. La Ceiba is an excellent place to provision. For boat-work, Tony is an excellent craftsman. He has a machine shop on sight and does all kinds of maintenance including aluminum and stainless steel fabrication.

Also, at the same harbor, the La Ceiba Shipyard has a 100-ton travel lift. Their services have been reasonably priced and the work has been good. The yard is among the cleanest anywhere.

Check-in can be done at La Ceiba, Utila, Roatan, and Guanaja. In the past, the check-in cost was about $2.00 with visits only to the Port Captain and Immigration.

Utila, Roatan, and Guanaja, The Bay Islands of Honduras. Many cruisers find the Bay Islands to be the cruising highlight of the western Caribbean. There are many anchorages and cruisers tend to move with the seasonal weather. The wall diving is spectacular and snorkeling is also good. There are no lobster and few fish however.

Punta Sal, Puerto Escondido, Lagoona Tinto (Diamonte). Going west from La Ceiba on the north coast of Honduras, the Punta Sal area makes a good daytrip stopover. However, there are some things to know about this place.

Puerto Escondido would seem to be an idyllic anchorage. It is not a port and no one lives there. The lagoon is kidney shaped and has high bluffs as protection from the sea. Howler monkeys are about and the bluffs are covered with dense foliation. But, as we and others have experienced, it is no place to be in a norther. With winds from west to north, the anchorage is untenable. Large seas pour in through the entrance and vessels dare not attempt to leave because of semi-submerged rocks at the entrance. We nearly lost our boat there in 2002 and another vessel experienced the same conditions in 2003.

Lagoona Tinto otherwise known as Diamonte is a better choice at Punta Sal. It also has no inhabitants, but the anchorage provides near all-round protection. However, because most of the lagoon is shallow, the anchoring area is limited to a channel that goes straight in from the entrance.

Tres Puntas, Guatemala. This is a good stopover on the way to the Rio Dulce except when a norther threatens. Anchor about a mile southwest of Cabo Tres Puntas about 1/3 mile offshore. We are not aware of any security problems there. One can leave this anchorage in the dark to advantageously arrive at Livingston around 7:00 AM.

Rio Dulce, Guatemala. Almost everyone knows something about the Rio. It is the cruisers trap of cruisers traps. Marina costs are the lowest in the Caribbean (although electricity is expensive). Food is good and inexpensive. Produce is cheap, the beer is good and there are two ATMs at Fronteras. The Rio is a safe hurricane hole although insurance companies don’t make exceptions for it. While the water is clean (lake-like), swimming is not advisable because of the chance of serious parasitic infections. You see Indian children swimming, but few old Indians. I am told that is not a fair statement, but . . .

For vessels drawing less than 5 1/2 feet, crossing the bar at Livingston is not a problem. Deeper drafts up to 6 ½ feet make the bar crossing, but need to be play the tide and may need assistance. There is no channel into the river, just a wide bar having much the same depth from side to side except that the far north side is shallow. The bottom is soft mud. Follow the cruising guide information for entry.

The check-in procedure at Livingston changed in 2004. Since that time, on arrival, visiting vessels are to call The Port Captain on Channel 16 and wait for a visit by the various officials. The officials then collect passports, the Zarpe, crew list and copies of documentation. They advise the captain when to pick up the completed paperwork. After that, the first stop is the customs office. Check-in/out at Livingston has been available 7 days a week, beginning at 7:00 AM with no weekend overtime charges. The officials are the nicest and most helpful in the Caribbean. Check with the folks on the NW Caribbean Net regarding any recent changes that may have been made.

The Rio has historically had security problems. After anchoring and checking in at Livingston, do not remain there for the night, it is much too risky. Instead, continue upriver.

Upriver, the Rauscher guide suggests a few canyon anchorages, but the only reasonably safe place we suggest is near the Ac’ Tenamit facility. Anchor on the north side of the river between Ac’ Tenamit and the Rio Tatin. You will be delighted by the Mayan children in their cayucas as they fish or go to and from the school at Ac’ Tenamit.

There have been times when it was safe to anchor in El Golfito. But to avoid potential problems, we suggest continuing on to Fronteras. The Golfito area can be visited later after up-to-date security information has been obtained.

At Fronteras there are a number of marinas to choose from including: Mario’s Marina, Monkey Bay, Tortugal, Susannah’s, Catamaran, Hacienda Tijax, Mini-marina, Hotel Miramonte Inn Marina, Mango’s, Bruno’s and others. Most are med-moor slips, but Susannah’s has all side-to tie-ups. Mario’s and others have a few side ties also. Time your arrival as early as possible to make a selection.

Some boats anchor out near Fronteras, but beware; they are clear targets for theft. Several of our friends have had sorry experiences anchored out. Get other knowledgeable cruiser’s timely input before doing so.

For excursions to Lago Isabel, anchoring out can be done, but not without some risk. Sometimes Lago Isabel is clearly off limits and at others, reasonably safe.

One last note on security in the Rio. The thieves in the Rio come and go. Sometimes they are cleaned out and several months go by without a single incident. At other times the problems are much more frequent. When the thieves are active, they do their homework watching the banks and ATMs, the boats and dinghy movements. At such times, the only safe place to keep a boat is at a guarded marina. As in Venezuela, a little dose of caution goes a long way. For us, the Rio has been a delightful place to hang out and we plan to return there yet again.

During November through March, the weather in the Rio is great. April and May, however, are very hot and the smoke from burning fields can be chokingly dense. That’s a good time to head for Belize.

Belize. The islands and Barrier reef of Belize have some of the best diving and snorkeling in the Caribbean. From April through December, the water is warm and the lobsters and fish are plenty.

Sometimes a Belizean check-in is pleasant, but often the officials can be insufferably snotty. Check-in is uncomplicated, but there have been times when freshly provisioned boats coming from Guatemala have had much of their fresh produce confiscated for “agricultural reasons”. The NW Caribbean net will help keep you apprised of that situation. Check-in/out can be done at Punta Gorda, Placencia (Big Creek), Belize City and San Pedro.

There have been recent changes in Belize regarding check-in fees. A new anchoring fee has been reported, but we don’t have the particulars. The best diving and snorkeling can be found on the offshore atolls of Lighthouse, Glovers and Turneffe reefs. There are great spots on the barrier reef and other islands as well.

When faced with extraordinarily bad forecast weather (occasionally Dec. through March), there are a few good places to go. These include: Blue Creek (Turneffe), Sapadillo Lagoon (mainland south of Sittee Pt.) and New Haven (mainland, south of Punta Negra). All are uninhabited areas, but they offer 360-degree protection.

Security problems (outside of the Belize City area) have been only spotty in the past. The anchorages are often sufficiently remote that few people are seen.

Most cruisers check out of Belize at San Pedro, Ambergris Cay. The best anchor holding is south of town near the Pepto-Bismol colored buildings. The once sleepy town (prior to about 1985) is now so crowded with tourists, golf carts and cars it is hazardous to walk about. Everything is expensive there.

Mexico. In the past, the best plan has been to cruise the Mexican coast without checking in until reaching Isla Mujeres. That may seem odd, but there are good reasons. Going north, the first port of entry beyond the Belizean border, is Xcalak. The entry through the reef at Xcalak is safe only in fair weather and the anchorage is scoured out with poor, if any, holding. Even in settled weather, an anchor watch may be necessary. The officials also tend not to be available, sometimes for days. The other ports of entry before Isla Mujeres are even less desirable.

Most knowledgeable cruisers get to Isla Mujeres by variations of the following route:

San Pedro, Belize (check out),

Then with a Q flag only,

to Cayo Norte on the Chinchorro Banks, (beautiful marine park)

to Bahia del Espiritu Santo, (lobsters, fish)

to Bahia de la Ascencion, (many lobsters, fish)

to Puerto Aventuras, (great marina, nice folks)

to Isla Mujeres (check-in).

At many of the stops in Mexico, one can expect to be visitied by Mexican Navy. After anchoring, have fenders out – they aren’t too dainty with their large pangas.

Historically they have been unconcerned that vessels were not checked into the country. (We have spent as much as a month at the various anchorages without an eyebrow lifted). The Navy has always been courteous and pleasant, usually having only a few questions. Folks on the NW Caribbean Net will have the latest information.

Be sure to skip Cozumel. The officials there discourage cruiser’s visits with bogus charges, fines, delays, etc.

There have been changes in the check-in procedure at Isla Mujeres. It has been reported that an agent is now required and the fees have increased to around $200. Isla Mujeres used to be a wonderfully sleepy town with great food. It is no longer sleepy and the food isn’t as good, but it is still a good stop with friendly folks, few security issues, lots of restaurants, tourist junk and a well-protected anchorage.

If Isla Mujeres isn’t for you and there is a good weather window for heading to Key West, vessels can make an overnight stop without concern anchoring on the northwest side of Isla Mujeres. Q flag only, of course.

A final note. We have made four round trips from Key West to Central America. Most of the trips ended at Honduras, but the latest in 2003 and 2004 included Panama and Cartagena. Now that we have also visited the Eastern Caribbean we can say that, similar to Venezuela, the people of the Western Caribbean are more openly friendly to cruisers. We hope you enjoy it as much as we have.

Joan, Ben and Maggie

m/v Francesca