South Carolina to Isla Mujeres, Mexico, Part 1
2
At the anchorage we were welcomed by several dolphin and a call from the Mexican Navy. Within 20 minutes the Navy arrived, boarded Francesca, got the pertinent information and departed. They were very friendly and took no issue with the fact that we had checked out of Mexico at Isla Mujeres. For an hour or so and with gin clear water, we had a great view of the dolphin playing around our boat. After a quick swim and anchor check, it was time for some much needed sleep.
At daybreak we departed for San Pedro running in the lee of the banks for the next 26 miles. The sea and wind were calm. What a great day. The morning weather fax indicated that the anticipated norther was fizzling out. On the NW Caribbean net, we contacted Brenda and Gene on the sailboat "Queen Mary". They had left Isla M. heading south a day later than us and were anchored in Bahia Ascension. "Awab" was also there. Good to know everyone was safe.
On arrival at San Pedro, we again found very few cruisers. At this writing we are one of two. The whole of the tourist industry has been hit hard by September 11. San Pedro's many beachfront bars and restaurants are wanting for customers. Just as I had experienced in Isla Mujeres, the immigration and customs people were more pleasant than usual. I think they were genuinely glad we had come to visit. Check in at San Pedro is simple. One trip to the gov't building near the school gets it done. The check in fee was $17.00 US up from zero two years ago. Customs and immigration are open 9 - 5, 7 days a week.
We first visited San Pedro by air in 1981. Then, it was so sleepy that dogs slept in the middle of the street and the two or three cars on the island drove around them. Since then, the town has doubled in size, yet most of the same businesses, bars and hotels are still here. While I'm certain there is plenty of money to pave the streets, the dirt streets have wisely been retained and the town retains some of it's former sleepy charm. Now, however, the streets are heavily trafficked with cars, trucks and golf carts. One sailboat charter business has 11 cruising catamarans docked. At roughly $250,000 each, I'm sure they are hoping for a speedy economic recovery.
With only the reef for protection, the anchorage at San Pedro is open to the elements. With generally poor holding, its not the place to be in a real blow. (There are some good spots to anchor off the south part of town). However, we have been in San Pedro for several days now and the winter weather remains more settled than we have ever experienced in these latitudes. "Queen Mary" and "Awab" should be arriving any time now.
Joan, Ben & Maggie
San Pedro, Ambergris Cay, Belize