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At Isla Mujeres, December 13, as usual at 6:30 AM, we received the weatherfax wind and seas forecast. Oh, oh, the 72 hour forecast showed a blustery norther heading. Joan and I discussed it for about 30 seconds and decided that, with the current settled weather, we had an opportunity to make it to Belize before the front hit. Thus, with brief visits to immigration and the Port Captain, we checked out of Mexico.

Leaving Isla Mujeres at 8:00 AM on Friday the 14th, we had planned a short day cruise and to spend the night anchored on the north end of Cozumel. From there we could leave around 3:00 AM and make a long day of it. However, the sea conditions were so good that the plan was scrapped in favor of an overnighter with the hope of arriving in San Pedro, Belize late the following afternoon. In the past, the Mexican Yucatan coast has been a difficult cruise for us. The distances between safe anchorages is almost too long for day cruising and when you arrive at one of the few anchorages, the sun is low in the western sky making it difficult to see the reefs, breaking water, etc. Add to that the uncertainty of the currents and one can't help but have concerns of being forced to spend the night out in a building sea.

A mile or so off the Mexican shore, the current runs north at about 2 knots. Very close in shore, often less than 1/2 mile out from the reef, there is a coastal counter current running south at ½ to1 knot. A line that defines the current change is clearly visible during calm conditions. So, during daylight hours, when it is possible to see the reef, it makes good sense to run in shore. That would not, however, be a wise thing to do at night. So, as the sun was setting, we headed offshore. Sure enough, our progress slowed to 5 knots. Sometime before midnight, the beam seas built to the point where everyone, including the auto pilot, was unhappy. We began a +/- 20 degree tack that greatly improved our ride, but cut our forward progress to around 4 knots. Even with the auto pilot back in control it was a long night.

It was apparent that we could not make it to San Pedro before dark the next day. The next best alternative was to put into the Mexican archipelago of Chinchorro Banks, 60 miles short of San Pedro. The anchorage on the north end is at Cayo Norte where there is a light tower and small base manned by the Mexican Navy. We arrived there about 11:00 AM and glad for it. Francesca, Joan, Maggie and I were a little abused, but otherwise fine. Francesca was the only cruiser there.